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Hey Docent….
I’ve seen the Youtube show…Pretty nice!I bought all new sails (main/mizzen/jib) a couple/three years ago. I have a 130 Jenny and a staysail ( a sail made for a club foot/boom arrangement – self tending ) – both hanked on – both made by Ratsey & Lapthorn – both are a bit old but very serviceable. I had them serviced & re sewn/patched where needed just before I bought the new sails – I installed a roller furler for the jib & that “mushroomed” into all new sails for the boat. I also have a new, never used storm sail for the boat. I’m in Concord NH….let me know if you are interested …They fit a D36 which carries pretty much the same rig as a 35…. I have photos of the 135 sailing…..Tag an email to Boatsnh@yahoo with a phone # if interested.
Have Fun!Well…I crawled under the cockpit last week and found the wire a bit worn where the wire feeds into the quadrant – looks like it has “rubbed” as it fed into the quadrant off the alignment wheel – which is a bit off perhaps – a few worn strands. 38 years is a pretty good run.
By dumb luck I found a “new/old stock” bronze edson bulkhead mount steering station unit for our “teak box” pedestal this past weekend at a local marine store. It has the wire, chain and an integrated wheel brake built into the unit…..I’ve always liked a wheel brake to lock the rudder at anchor or sailing….so …it was priced right & had to follow me home.
Add another thing to the list of “projects”. I’m hoping that it may be a reasonably simple swap-out…famous last words!
Mikehey Joe….
how about a little (lot?) of teflon in the paint!
I’ve heard the same thing over the years too….wonder if it’s a old wife’s tale……
MikeHi Dana,
I assume you have the Paragon sail drive unit. I had mine out of the boat in 2007 and had to do a lot of “digging” for a manual, seals & parts when I had it all apart:You can get many of the needed Parts & a Paragon service manual from Great Lakes Power – at 1-800-325-6880. You want to speak with “Charlie” in parts – he has over 30 years experience with Paragon transmissions & was very helpful. The “service” manual is only 25 pages, but it has exploded views and “Trouble shooting charts” & solutions. In the gear dragging trouble shooting section there are 4 “check for” areas. 1. Defective forward clutch plates 2.reverse band engaging gear case 3. binding planetary system 4.over adjustment on forward & reverse. They have solutions for each. I think I paid $12-15 for this manual….well worth the price.
This is a pretty simple transmission & easy to work on. If you are lucky the adjustment of the forward/reverse gear is incorrect (too tight) – this can be easily rectified with the tranny in the boat. Any other issues may require transmission removal. I’m pretty sure you can view clutches/planetary gears if the top plate is removed to see clutch plates or planetary gears to get an idea as to any obvious issues.
Did you see “junk” in the oil when you changed it?? Any metal bits in the oil? Is the oil burned/black? Black oil is clutch lining wear……
I’m not 100% sure but I think the length of a velvet drive is la couple inches longer & will not fit – not enough room.
I just saw one of these transmissions on ebay a couple months ago for $175 or so…They are out there….
Mike AitkenHi Caroline,
Ouch…..Sounds like the sail down was wonderful. It was 24 degrees in Concord NH today – I want to be you guys!My wife and I own a 1973 36 foot Ketch – It’s sitting in the driveway in front of the house; Here are some measurements I just took off the boat…..
I rebuilt my rudder 3 years ago because the rudder post was cracked on a grounding a few years back when we were just a bit north of Norfolk, Va. I tore the rudder apart to replace the top post & flipped the bottom post/pin to eliminate “wobble” in the shoe. The rudder is a foam composite – foam core, with a very simple attachment for the top post – Dickerson put a bend in the rudder post about 2 inches below the top of the rudder and “bent” the post at about a 60 degree angle into the body of the rudder. The “bent” section is about 15 inches long – there are no other “ribs/stringers” that you might find on a spade rudder – my feeling is that this is not a highly stressed rudder. The top post is 1.25 inch (Dickerson used Tobin bronze, I replaced with stainless – I used an old shaft that someone gave me because it was scored in places but not an issue in this application. That might be a cheap out for you in the islands….
The bottom of the rudder is held in the shoe by a 8 inch long piece of bronze rod that is glassed in place on the leading edge of the rudder – the rod extends about 1 inch out of the rudder and fits into the hole in the shoe. No bearing..
Some dimensions:
A. The rudder is a bit over 1.5 inches thick on the lead edge & tapers to about .25 inch on the trail edge.B. To get your “top length” of the Rudder – The top of the rudder extends aft 14.5 inches from the front of where the rudder post exits the boat.
C. So….. 1. Take a 1/2 inch thick board 3 feet long and sit it on the top of your rudder shoe – hold it level (block it up with a cinder block or wood scraps). Have it follow the line of your keel. (this will give you your bottom edge for your rudder).
2. Cut a 14.5 inch long board & hold 1 end to the the front of the hole where the rudder post exits the boat & hold it level, at the aft end of this stick drop a plumb bob (or level) straight down towards the ground. This gives you the rudder top dimension, trailing edge & bottom of the rudder – The bottom aft edge of the rudder is 6 inches forward of this (plum bob) line. The aft edge of the rudder does not drop straight down, it angles forward a bit. So, measure back towards the keel on the bottom board, 6 inches from the “plum bob” line – this is your rudder dimension. The bottom of the rudder is pretty much level and follows the keel, but sits about 1/2 inch above the shoe.D. For the Prop opening – Measure from the top of the shoe up 20 inches – that’s where the aperature opening for the prop starts. The aperature opening extends aft 10.65 inches and drops a bit in this 10.65 inches – it drops 2 inches from bow to stern – measure up from the bottom of the rudder 18 inches for the stern end of the bottom of the aperature – that’s your mark. Our rudder has a radius of about 1/2 inch where the horizontal rises into the vertical on the aft corner of the prop aperature.
The top of the prop opening (aperature) starts 7.25 inches below the bottom of the boat and is pretty much an arc that blends into the trailing edge of the aperature.
E. The Leading edge of the rudder face in the aperature is 3 3/4 inches aft of the back face of the Prop (the prop nut fastens up to this face). The thickness of the rudder here is also about 1.5 inches. The “Leading edge” of the rudder in this aperature is pretty much parallel to the Prop blades. This angle is a bit different than the angle of the leading edge of the rudder….
Our rudder is a foam blank that had a couple of layers of 6-8 oz cloth over the whole thing – with a bit of fiberglas (looked like a bunch of mashed potatoes plastered in place) reinforcement where the rudder post was bedded in the foam – a lot less than I expected.
When I replaced the top rudder post i did it pretty much “on the boat” since I could not “drop” the rudder – I cut the old post out in place, replaced the post on the boat & rebuilt the rudder in place on the boat – Eliminated any “alignment” issues, since I could see everything as I went along & adjust as needed…..I bedded our new post into the foam rudder in a mix of epoxy & cabosil – clamped it in place over the rudder post to make sure all was fair. let it all harden. Then re-wrapped the rudder in a couple layers of glass & west epoxy & added a couple/3 additional layers on the top 1/3 of the rudder where the post was – then faired it all smooth & painted it with some epoxy paint I had lying around…. Looks nice, & has worked fine for 3 years.
I suspect you could make a new “foam” rudder out of construction foam panels. 2 3/4 inch panels sandwiched with some reinforcement where the post sits – bend the top post – that gives you the angle, rough out the panels & press them against the post – then rout out where the post sits….reinforce a bit with epoxy/glass – screw the 2 faces together with epoxy on the faces….Fair to size with an autobody grinder & 7 inch disc….Coat in glass & epoxy.
Or, build it out of plywood in layers, rout out where the top/bottom posts go – fill the routing with epoxy & cabosil to fill & hold everything in place – then cover the whole thing in epoxy & glass….
Just some thoughts……Oh….The thickness of the rudder tapers only in the last 6 inches of the rudder. It holds the 1.5 inch thickness throughout the body of the rudder & in the last 6 inches it tapers to about .25 inch.
We repaired our rudder in a boatyard in Norfolk Va after a grounding 6 years ago. Tore the top of the rudder apart, Bent the rudder post & cracked the rudder near the pin that fit into the shoe – I used a Wood chisel to cut the post out – a torch to bend the post straight (big hammers & backing plate) & epoxy & glass to hold everything together for the trip to Massachusetts. A couple years later I tore the whole rudder apart to “fix” the repair – these are pretty simple, low stress rudders.
If I were doing my rudder again I’d think hard about extending the rudder about 3 inches and put a radius on the bottom edge that rose 6-7 inches towards the stern – so if I grounded the rudder would be up off the bottom a bit more out of danger – Cape Dory & Allied do that on some of their bigger boats…. easy to calculate the area. Although the additional surface area would be a bit farther aft ……..I’d probably replace 80% of what I removed from the bottom.
Hope this is helpful….If you would like any additional measurements, ect give me a call on My Cell # 603-225-7999 & I will help as best I can. If you want I can e-mail a picture of this to you so you get a better feel for these dimensions…….E-mail BoatsNH@yahoo.com
MikeHi Steve,
Send to BoatsNH@yahoo.com when you get a chance….Thanks!!I recently picked up (Yesterday) a new to me, hardly used, Simrad Hydraulic Ram with a remote pump for a wonderful price – So the fun begins….. I Think I saw somewhere that you installed the New DD-15 Simrad drive ( Made By Jefa) that looks pretty cool – I like the idea of low power consumption……But I suspect I’ll scratch my head a bit and move forward with what I have now….
I posted earlier that the D-36 quadrant “Floats”. What that means is that the rudder is attached to the bottom of the keel ( in the shoe) and passes thru the hull thru a 3-4 inch build-up of fiberglass that has a tiller post with packing nut to keep out water. There is no “bearing” here – the post is in a fiberglass tube – The rudder shaft then sticks up” into the air about 8-9 inches and the quadrant is bolted to the squared top. No bearing on top of the shaft – no keyway cut into the post. So…The rudder shaft probably “flexes” a little bit as the steering quadrant turns under load – probably flexed more a couple years ago when the bost was bronze (I had to replace it – used stainless). It really ought to have a bearing to take up any side load….
So a little engineering/thinking will be required here….
A wheel pilot would be so much easier…..
Have Fun!
MikeGee…Still have my Blue Sunbrella Steering Station cover – I Measured it & It’s about 26″ wide at the top, and 36 inches deep. It is off-set for the wheel/box & would fit pretty much any of the old “Teak Box” steering stations on the dickerson 35 & 36 ..Hate to see it sit in the attic….
MikeHi Al,
I replaced the fuel fill o-ring 3 years ago as I chased down the reason I had water in my fuel……… that traveled into the Racor……..that traveled thru the Racor (yes, Racor filters will pass water into the injector pump -Racor will say no – good filter people will say otherwise) and destroyed my injection pump on my 4-107.
The o ring on my fuel fill had “shrunk” and became brittle.. lousy seal. Allowed water on the deck to ingress to the tank.
Expensive lesson!! New O – ring cost a couple $$ – Injection pump was a whole lot more!
I’ll probably raise the fill this year on a 1/2 inch round base as I goof around on the decks..some of the glass is so,so, and might get fixed this year.
Al, Good reminder for everyone
MikeHi Peter,
Yes, we have been in Westport for the Past few years. Winter Storage in New Hampshire for this winter & we may moor in Portsmouth NH for 2011 if mooring (wait-listed) is available. We love Westport so we will not be too sad if we end up there again next season – we Love the islands & warm water.If you are leaning towards the Doyle system; Another little item we sometimes miss….. Because Doyle’s are sewn to the sail they tend to be less aggravation under sail – when the sail is raised the “pack” tensions at bottom of the sail & you hardly notice it (except for the color of the Pack). The Mack style need to be dropped to the boom to be out of the way – we just let if fly in the wind and don’t bother till the wind pipes up.
I’d suspect that since Doyle moved into new Digs in Marblehead a couple years back, business for them has been good – they make a nice sail. A buddy of mine has used the loft in South Dartmouth with very good results for his 1938 Alden design Cutter. Being a Massachusetts Loft I’m sure all the Doyle lofts in Ma. are pretty good.
You will have to give thought to attending our “3rd” annual Dickerson gathering in New England for summer 2011. Last year (2009) was at Block Island in the fog. A couple weeks ago we got together in Bristol RI & next year’s will be at a yet to be decided location. So far we have 5 of us in New England who have made the effort to get together. 1 Plywood hard chine ketch, 3 glass 36’s ( 1 ketch, 2 sloops) & a 37 sloop. With some luck we could get 7-8 boats there next year!
Mike
Hi Peter & Welcome!
We have a MackPack style system on both the main & mizzen on our 36 ft Ketch & find that they make life so much easier. They do pretty much what they promise – and can be zipped easily. Much easier than fighting with the sail cover & a real time saver.
My brother put a Doyle Stack Pack on his Cal 39 and is very pleased by the performance of the Doyle system – in fact that’s why we looked at them for “Iris”.
The difference between the Doyle & Mack system is that Doyle sews their system to the sail & uses rigid rods on the upper section of the pack. You have to take the sail to a Doyle loft. Mack Packs are not attached to the sail and do not use a hard rod on the top of the pack – no need to go to a sail loft to sew on – they will send them to you pretty much complete. We both self-installed the lazyjacks are both happy with our respective systems.
We both have conventional track systems – McLube on sail tracks makes dropping/raising sails pretty easy. Both Mains are full battens top 2 & 1/2 battens for the lowwer 2-3.
MikeHi linda…
I thought you mentioned wood..The only reason I suggested aluminum is that most wood masts, unless they are stored inside a mast shed, will age less gracefully than the boat they are associated with. Finding a wood mast for a 35 may be a challenge – A friend of mine had one made for his 30 foot cutter out of Doug-fir. Ouch!!I do know that Jeff Thompson up in Maine has a 35 “woodie” with aluminum masts that he painted to”look like wood” (or perhaps less like aluminum) and has wood booms finished bright – the two compliment each other and make for a very good looking boat. Just a thought …
mikeHust,
I posted another link in the “$2,000” Dickerson thread….a nice one on the Eastern Shore.
Have Fun!
MikeGee, When It rains it pours…
Here is another Glass 36 on the Eastern shore – bet this one could be had for $2,000 also.
http://easternshore.craigslist.org/boa/1677887604.html
mikeLinda,
Look in the parts for sale area on this forum. John Carey was parting out a boat – he’s on the eastern shore – I would e-mail him to see if he still has the masts.
MikeHi Hust…
I just saw this post…hope the “dickerson search” is moving forward. If I see a decent dickerson out ther I’ll let you know. Too bad on the boat in Chatham – that makes no sense to me….but funny how people are. I saw the photos & it looked pretty good to me. It has the same lines as my 36 (the clipper bow was the give-away) and looked to be all there….
Mike