2009 Winterizing

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  • #164
    Fleet Captain
    Keymaster

    Despite the absolutely beautiful weather here in Hampton Roads today, I know that a few of our northern brethren are already preparing to winterize. Many of you haul out this time every year—luckily we are able to stay wet. Still, it is getting to be time to think about “autumn duties”. I’m interested in what “rituals” ya’ll go through.

    For “Crew Rest”, we change fuel filters (one water separator and one on-engine), fill the fuel tank (and add fuel treatment). Change the raw water impeller and pump a small amount of non-toxic antifreeze through the raw water system. Close all seacocks (except the cockpit scuppers and propane vents). Drain potable water and add non-toxic antifreeze to the fresh water tank, sinks, and head. I don’t drain the hot water heater, but run a little anti-freeze through the hot water system. Remove the bimini. Remove the jenny and “think about” removing the main (never seem to get that done).

    Interested in your comments.

    Barry

    #621
    Rshel34
    Participant

    Barry

    Sorry your weekends are going to be taken up with travel. I will not haul this year since I just did that this past winter. I usually try to go every other year. That being said, I will remove all sails, dodger, bimini, cockpit cushions and all interior cushions. I will cover from the stern to the mast with a tarp. Possibly I will also cover the bow area with a separate tarp. I will change oil, fill the fuel tank and remove the water pump impellar. I will also drain the fresh water system, treat and pump out the Lectra-San tank and add antifreeze where needed. Since I have the bladder type water tanks I will be removing and trashing those. I plan to build and install new rigid tanks during the winter. In the spring, at start up time I will replace all filters as well as the oil in the engine. I will haul in early spring (as soon as I’m sure there will be no more freezes) at which time I will wash and wax the hull clean the bottom and apply bottom paint if needed and service all sea cocks. At this time my project list for this winter is rather short.

    Let me know if I have missed anything.

    Bob S.

    #622
    Irish Mist
    Keymaster

    Hi Bob,
    I notice in your note that you have an Electo San as I do on Irish Mist. This year I started blowing fuses. Have you had any similar problems, Suggestions would be appreciated.

    Joe

    #623
    Rshel34
    Participant

    Hi Joe,
    Knock on wood but so far I haven’t had that problem. I did have to replace the electrode pack several years after I bought the unit but that is the only problem so far. I have had my unit since 1999. I do treat it several times a season with muratic acid as spelled out in the owners manual. This past winter I removed it from the boat and completely disassembeled it and cleaned all of the electrical connections as well as the circuit board. The original fuses were still in use and after a good cleaning of the contacts I reinstalled them. I do have a good book on board on taking care of the unit. This weekend I will be back at the boat and get the information and send to you. You might also try contacting Raritan Engineering by e-mail and see if they can help you. I had good luck with them when I replaced my eletrode pack. I also have the name of an expert on the unit that is also on the boat. I’ll get all of this to you the end of the week. Hope it will help.

    Bob S

    #624
    Irish Mist
    Keymaster

    Bob,

    Thanks–Great Looking Fwd to info. Guess I have been kinda lazy with it. Have not taken it out. It is under sink in head and in back of cabinet, Has a 50 ampere fuse.

    Hope you and Barry and the group can organize a Rendezvous at your area. We had a great time at the Western Shore that Randy set up. Much more intimate–really get to talk to everyone.

    I was on Rainbow when those cowards cancelled the race. Hi if you want to race do it–if winds are too much forget it. Private decision–right.

    All the Best

    Joe, Irish Mist

    #625
    Al Sampson
    Participant

    Don’t forget to remove your raw water pump impeller for the winter. Look for cracks, if cracked get a new one. If it’s the old fasion black rubber type, coat it with a silicone product or o-ring lube, then leave it out. In the spring flip it over so it will rotate in the opposite direction. It will last a very long time this way.

    Also loosen your belts for the winter. Your bearings and belts will thank you for it.

    Last but not least don’t come up here for the winter!!!!!!

    Al

    #626
    Irish Mist
    Keymaster

    Al, I have a westerbeke / perkins 4-107. I do not take rubber impellar out because it is a heck of a job getting it back in because of key always moving and you have to com press the rubber blades to fit. Guess my old fingers are not up to it–unless you have some secrets that will make it easier. I do take off face plate and put grease in between blades of the impellar.

    I always have a problem gett ing my lube oil screw on Fram filter off. Seems rubber gasket sticks and yesterday I ended up twisting the filter housing which is made of paper thin metal–but it is still on–did not move. So I decided the heck with these cheap filter wrenches. Going to buy a Rigid strap wrench that has a 1.75 inch wide nylon strap and a 18 inch handle that will handle filters 4 inches in diameter. Cost $60 but maybe it will do the trick. Appreciate any suggestions.

    Joe

    #627
    Al Sampson
    Participant

    Mark the cover with the orientation of the blades so you know how to rotate it as you are trying to stuff it back into the hole, it’s not easy! Lubrication and practice helps.

    When you put a new filter on do you put a little oil onto the rubber seat? Only screw it on hand tight, doesn’t require tightness. Then run the engine to make sure it is tight enough.

    Guess it’s the price we pay to play!

    Al

    #628
    Irish Mist
    Keymaster

    Thanks Al,

    Probably put it on tooo tight. Putting grease or oil on gasket when I get this one off.

    Thanks for advice.

    Joe

    #629
    Rshel34
    Participant

    Joe,

    A little trick I learned from a Diesel mechanic has helped me greatly with changing my impeller. I also have a Westerbeake/Perkins 107. Put a hose clamp on the impeller and tighten it down until the blades are compressed enough to easily fit into the pump. Be sure that as you tighten the clamp that you keep the blades oriented in the direction they will be once in the pump. I also find that if I use a large piece of dowel to drive the impeller into place makes it easier. As the impeller goes in the hose clamp will be pused off by the pump housing. Use plenty of petroleum jelly and it should go in without a problem. I change my impeller every spring regardless of condition.

    Bob S.

    #630
    Irish Mist
    Keymaster

    Thanks Bob,

    Will try it. My problem seems to be key slipping–not staying firm. But I do go about 5 years on the same impellar.

    All the Best

    Joe

    #631
    Fleet Captain
    Keymaster

    Thanks to all the pro’s for the suggestions—lot’s of talk about changing the raw water pump impeller. Bob has a great suggestion about the hose clamp. I found that a plastic wire bundle tie works equally well.

    While Bob and I weren’t badgering the “Good Old Boat” magazine people at the Annapolis boat show for not showcasing Dickerson’s, I was trying to learn how in the world I was going to get my impeller out to change it. “Crew Rest” has been repowered with a Yanmar “JH” and the Johnson raw water pump is impossible to get at (unless you are left handed and have the arms of an NBA center). There was no way to get “two screwdrivers to pry”–much less get a wheel puller in there.

    As luck would have it—Shore Marine of Annapolis–who did the repower had the answer. They use special long nose pliers that they heat and bend two 90 degree turns while opening up the end jaws. Perfect for the space we have to work with. They even had several at the show. I bought one on the spot!

    I guess the lesson is—-sometimes you have to make the tools you need.

    Joe,

    I’m sure you’ve tried slathering the key with some heavy grease to hold it in position while you ease on the impeller?

    #632
    Rshel34
    Participant

    Hi Barry,
    I’m glad you found the tool you need to take care of removing you water pump impeller. Oyster Festival this weekend, you should come up and give it a try.

    Bob S.

    #633
    Al Sampson
    Participant

    Joe,

    Clean the key and seat, then apply a tiny amount of “blue” loctite. You don want it to get into the hole on the impeller. It should hold the key in place until it is all assembled.

    Al

    #634
    Irish Mist
    Keymaster

    Thanks AL and Barry,

    Grease I know but blue locktite. Where can I get that. I did most of my winterizing yesterday. My new Rigid 18 inch strap wrench loosened lube oil filter. Had my fuel tank pumped out 3 years ago and installed twin Perkins fuel filters –they are each about 6 inches long–and still I have no vacuum on my gauge. I do about 100 hours a year and Bill Burry says about 300 hours or a vacuum of 3-4 inches. So I guess it is time to change them while I am ahead. I am sure you guys who change your water pump impellars every year would agree. Havent changed filter next to engine either for 3 years. I do have back up parallel filter so I can switch over if one gets clogged and a back up electric fuel pump. So it gets to if you want to go down to the bilge to change when you have guests aboard and are dressed in a Tux..

    One of my head thru hull stop cock brass valves was really stubborn. It is amazing I needed a small 7/8 inch wrench to back off nut on lower side so I could force insides up and turn valve. Try to find one forget it. I did find a 6 inch crescent that will open to i inch. How about the good old monkey wrench. Any of you guys remember those. You could grip it at 90 degrees without going straight out.

    Joe Irish Mist

    Appreciate your advice

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