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I use a home made rig of a positive displacement reciprocating pump (PAR 36950-1000) mounted on the screw down cover of a plastic 3 gallon container. For many years I used a small suction hose inserted into the dip stick hole which was then inserted into a larger suction hose going to the pump. Regardless of how warm the oil got–it would usually take longer than 30 minutes–while cramped in the bilge– to pump out the oil from my Westerbeke 4-107 in the fall.
So this year I took out the small hose and put the larger hose (3/8 inch I.D.) around the outside of the dip stick tube. Did not even need a clamp. What a difference! The oil sump was pumped dry in 10 minutes.
Try it you will be surprised.
Joe Slavin
My westerbeke (circa 1973) does not drain thru the dipstick hole -has to drain out of the pan drain – and into the bilge when something spills…..So, when I rebulit the engine 3 years ago I made up a drain pump that screws into the drain pan and pumps the pan dry from there. I saw this set-up on Beta and Nanni engines at the boat shows in New England & thought it pretty slick idea. Just buy a Fynspray oil transfer pump & bring it and your drain plug to your local hose fabricator – I use a local large auto parts store that makes up hose & has a machine shop – they will make up the hose with a fitting that mates into the oil pan and attaches to the pump – I’m using high pressure hydraulic line – tell them how long a hose you want for mounting considerations & there you go. I can drain the engine in about 3 minutes – no muss, no fuss and no electricity needed. You can pump directly into a used gallon jug & never have to screw around with messy oil containers. easy. The best part is that the pump is mounted in the engine room 24/7 so you do not have to go look for the “transfer” stuff, haul it to the boat, use it and than haul it home.
The old Perkins 4-108 had a pump mounted directly to the top of the aluminum pan that does the same thing – Why westerbeke did not use the same pan when they marinized the perkins engine makes no sense to me – except that the aluminum pan probably costs a bit more than the stamped steel one on the westerbeke…who knows.
Good arrangement Mike.
Hope you and Una can make the Rendezvous in June.
What is your secret for weeping Seacocks. I find sometime when I move it from winter closed to spring open I sometime get a little leaking even if I tighten the nut pretty good. My only solution in the water is to remove the nut while seacock is in closed position and clean end and put a lot of heavy grease on it and hope it works. Once in the boat yard I can take it out and grind it in a bit.
Appreciate your comments.
All the Best
Joe
Hi Joe!
Weeping seacocks….gee I thought if you ignored them long enough they would harden into a mess of bronze that did not move or leak….just kidding. I find the only thing that keeps “weeping” away is to pull the seacock apart prior to launch & very lightly wetsand any irregularities down & grease with a good waterproof grease – it’s a pain, and your post reminded me I ought to look at these this spring. I always wondered if there was any way to do anything in the water, but I suspect the design of these W/C seacocks (or any of this style) is such that the barrel needs grease over all of it. I guess the good thing is that they last for years if given even a bit of care.Una & I might make the rendezvous “sans” Iris – We will not be heading south this season and still waiting for our mooring arrangements to be finalized for this season – we have been on a “wait list” and are not too sure our “anticipated” mooring is opening up. In the Portsmouth NH area there are mooring fields that take many years to get a spot – perhaps we ought to move south to the Chesapeake! Or back to Westport Ma.
Have fun! Mike
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