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On a 36′ with a 35# CQR & 30 feet of chain, a windlass seems like a real back saver. On a 41 it’s standard equipment I’d suspect. Any comments on vendor/type and sizes folks use. My suspicion is that most boats use electric units from the likes of Lewmar (V1), Lofrans (Project1000/1500) & perhaps Maxwell – Comments on what you have that works & why you like it. Anyone use manual units with success?? Food for thought if anyone is looking add/change one.
Hi Mike,
I thought about a windlass for a long time and decided on a light weight danfort aluminum anchor. Now if I get in a big storm I have a folding spider anchor on deck ready to go.
Works well in Chesapeake Bay where we have a lot of soft mud.
Joe, Irish Mist
Happy New Year Mike,
Crew Rest was partially blue water fitted when we purchased her to include a Lofrans Tigres to weigh the CQR and an ALL chain rode. And you are right about the back—the windlass is a “luxury” that we couldn’t do without. I’m comfortable dropping the hook in any blow. We also carry a Fortress 16 on a seconday rode with about 25′ chain. The windlass installation is very tidy aft of the Sampson post on a teak base with a 3/4″ plywood backing plate under deck. Two foot switches mounted to starboard and a salt water washdown fixture/hose complete the package. Step on the up switch–squirt the hose–sweet. The windlass is powered from the engine start battery.
Steve completed a similar installation on Snoodle Time recently. So, I can’t speak for everyone–but we spend a fair amount of the time on the hook and I wouldn’t do without it.
I’d post a picture if I could figure out how.
Hi Barry,
The best in 2009 to you too!
Looks like you have the “around the world” windlass option. I’d be interested in a photo to see your placement/location since we have Sampson posts to work around with Dickersons. I had a “new” SL Hyspreed manual windlass that was packed away in the boat when we bought it – I sold it – unused- last year to a fellow up in Maine (more to discourage me from mounting & using it. It would have been an easy install, but not too sure I’d have liked the “manual” effort on the fore deck). A buddy of mine mounted a Lofrans Project 1000 a couple years ago on a D-35 “woodie” and he really loves it. Tag me a photo if you do not mind: boatsnh@yahoo.
Have Fun!
MikeMike,
Pictures on their way to you. Please don’t mind the brightwork condition. I’m slowly (continuously) getting to it.
I’ll go off topic for a minute here—-Yesterday and today I’m stripping and refininishing the head floorboards—next the cockpit. I’m trying “Citristrip” from Home Depot and “Bar Keepers Friend” from Fresh Market. The “Bar Keepers Friend” has the same oxalic acid as most teak cleaners for about 1/15th the cost. I’m sure we could start another thread on brightwork. Lots of different preferences out there.
Barry,
What will you finish the teak with inside and out? I’ve been hesitant to finish the cockpit grating as I figured it would get slippery when wet.
Steve,
I’m using standard Cetol Marine. Thin the first coat 50/50, second coat 25/75 and a couple coats straight. Nothing fancy—might be a bit slick–but heck, I’m always bouncing off something anyway.
Thanks to John Smith I installed an Lofrans Kobra on Wanderlust in the winter of 07.
I have to give credit to John who did all the home work and installed one on his boat first. Running the cable was the wrost part on my boat.
It is a perfect fit between the post and the inner forstay My 35#CQR and all chain has never been so light!
It came in very handy in 07 when I came to the rendezvous from R.I. and spent two months, most of the time alone, before returning home.
Make sure you use low power foot switches.
Someware I have a photo of John,s installation if anyone is interested.Here are a few pics during the installation of my anchor windlass. At this point, the teak pad has been constructed and fit to the deck and the windlass set in place. Foot switches have not been installed yet. Overall, it was a wonderful project. More work that I had imagined. Surprisingly, the electrical was the hardest part. I thought making the teak pad would be the most difficult task of all.
http://picasaweb.google.com/steven.dettman/MyPictures02?authkey=IU0zwrgYXrQ#5288650537789758690
Does anyone have any suggestions as how to keep the water from going down the chain hole other than a rag?
Al,
In one of the ten thousand DYI project books I’ve thumbed through at Borders, I remember seeing a wooden tapered plug that someone had crafted in two halves, then permanently seized around an appropriately placed link of the rode. So when the rode was out at anchor, the metal cover would operate as it does now, but when underway or in the slip (anchor secure), the cover would be flipped up and the plug would provide a seal.
Seems to me that the plug would take a beating through the roller–but who knows. I wasn’t inspired enough to try it—-yet.
Thanks for the input but I am speaking of the hole below the chainwheel of the windless. For the past two seasons I have placed a rag around the chain in the whole. There would seem to be a better way!
Just a FYI. Lewmar has some very low pricing on their V1 series Vertical windlass. I understand they are going to eliminate this model and have the V2 & V3 as “heavier” units and the V700 as a lighter unit. This size is in the ball park for the D 35 & 36…Defender is selling for $599 (old sell price around $1,350) 1000# max pull and 250# working load. Probably more than enough for weekend warriors and 35# anchors and 35# of chain. Low profile & out of the way. Looks like a lofrans 1000, but about $1000 less. Hmmm Any one use Lewmar products?
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