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Not scary for you guys. When we get ready for these kinds of projects, you guys are welcome to come live with us—we'll feed you and everything!
Looking forward to the Boat Show next week. Any particular toys who want me to check out?
There are not exactly alike, but your knobs look to be like Bomar knobs. Have a look on the web. You will want to get it right because some models use 1/2″ and some use 9/16″. Remember now that I ordered gasket material from Jamestown Distributors. Let's get a D41 person up here on the Forum to help, please.
Hi Art,
I assume we are talking about the gaskets around the opening parts and not the sealant used in permanently mounting the frames. “Crew Rest” has Bomar hatches and ports. They use 1/2″ gasket material that is sold by the foot at West Marine, etc. It has adhesive on one edge. You merely pull off the old, cut the new to length and press it in place. The new gasket material is round, but don't let that confuse you, it goes square over time.
Hi Art,
I've used Captain Tolley's with some success. It is extremely viscous and will only work on the smallest of hairline cracks although I've stopped some with multiple (up to 20) applications. It will find it's way into the tightest of places. And of course, actually finding the leak location is sometimes the toughest part of the job. Good luck.
Teddy,
Allow me to jump in. It's important to remember that within the obvious constraints like the basic hull mold for the fiberglass boats, Dickerson was quite happy to build each boat to customer desires. The document you reference is a “marketing brochure” and gives the generic specifications. And yes, that's as good information as we have to describe the D36 ketch. As Joe says, we do have some versions of the architectural line drawings for the hulls (and there were different versions of these as production continued). These do not include sail plans. So the picture I'm painting is that these are certainly NOT one-design boats. The 500 square foot sail area would be for the total sail compliment (3 sails), but a buyer or future owner might decide to increase or decrease that figure on personal preference. In other cases, the riggings were configured differently. For example, D36 “Lothlorien” carries her forestay all the way forward to the front of the duckbill that is supported by a bobstay (like the D41's). Other D36's forestays attach at the stem. So this allows for a different fore triangle area. The variations are endless.
Just some of the joys and frustrations of owning a “custom” boat. The DOA respects these differences.
Al,
As promised, following are thoughts from D41 “CAVU”:
Here's a good article:
http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/propane-systems.asp
I bought a propane locker from West Marine “Dual 20lb.” locker, part # 356198. It sells for $1139.99 retail. Mine is installed on the aft deck below the mizzen boom. I secured it to current deck hardware via four turnbuckles, also from West Marine. Previously, the tanks had been stored in the cockpit locker, in its own section. The surveyor objected for several reasons, primarily that it was accessed from a hinged side panel rather than a top panel.
The commercial box is not a panacea. It is in my opinion the fiberglass is way too thin. You should not stand on it, for instance. The shipwright who did the work had to add fiberglass to the inside so that the turnbuckles could be installed to a strong enough point. That being said, there is still the comfort of using a box specifically designed for propane. It looks nice. Be careful none of your friends cuts his shin on the latch, though.
Please note there are a many firm rules for installation of the system and little wiggle room. For instance, the hose from the box to the stove had to be one continuous unit, which had to be fabricated by a propane company. The article above covers most of the requirements, but you should go over ABYC A-1(9) yourself.
Hi Art,
The skipper of D41 CAVU just completed a very nice (and safety compliant) 2 propane tank locker installation on the aft deck. I'll get him up on the net to provide details.
Cheers
Hello Patti and “Welcome”,
Cap'n Al has given you some good data. Allow me to expand–Dickerson built 38 cruising Dickerson 37s. They also built several Farr designed 37s (IORC racers) outside this discussion. Of those 38 cruising boats, “about” 20 of them were aft cockpit sloops/cutters, and 18 were center cockpit ketches (Dickerson's preferred design). These numbers are approximate, because Dickerson built the boats to customer requirements. In that 38 number, there is one aft-cockpit yawl, but no center cockpit sloop/cutters.
The center cockpit ketches are pretty much alike, however, the aft-cockpit models are virtually all unique. There are three basic versions–the tri-cabin arrangement (head amidships), traditional arrangement (head forward) and short-handend arrangement (extra stowage in lieu of quarter berth). The mast placement on all aft cockpit models make them sloop or cutter configurable.
The owners of these boats are cruisers not racers (although many of us have a trophy or two). We have a 2002 PHRF of an aft cockpit sloop (with a 140% genoa) at 198. A sloop/cutter will beat a ketch upwind every time. That said, they were designed (and overbuilt) for the light airs of the Chesapeake Bay, with shallow draft, good light air performance–but certainly blue-water capable.
Weather helm easily managed with proper sail trim. Single-handed sailing is a dream with proper line control routing and management.
So, the bottom line—these are very different boats than your Pearson 35 and unfortunately, not many of them pop up on the market. The good news is that if you see a sloop and you are heartset on a cutter–no problem–conversion is easy.
Contact info listed above
Here it is again
Stanley Pease, in Hopkins, MN. e-mail:
actran@nfcpinc.comUpdate—-
Stan still has the new suit of sails for sale and the “new and improved price” is $1700. They were made by Moorhouse Sailmakers. Send him an email if interested.
Ahoy Brendan,
Welcome to the community. Cap'n Mike always gives good advice that you can take to the bank. In fact, I started the stuffing box thread he references with pretty much the same questions as you. The box on your boat is much more accessible than on the D37, so fear not–jump right in when you are on the hard. After doing it once, I would now even consider doing it in the water–but not the first time. And the new materials (packing and grease) really make a difference. Like Mike, my re-packed box does not drip at all at rest, and VERY little underway–nice and cool and dry. Here's a good pictorial discussion that I found helpful:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box
We did a Winterizing survey a couple of years ago and you can find a link to that from the Association homepage. I'm down in Hampton and we don't get frozen in, but it does get cold and I stay in the water year-round. Mike's got all the biggies listed. I have reliable shore power, and I hang a 100w lightbulb in the engine room (may not do much good–but it makes me feel better). Just some other random precautions I see in my marina:
1. Remove your headsail for sure
2. About 50% leave mainsail hanked on
3. Remove as much canvas (bimini/dodger) as can be done easily
4. Fill fuel tank
5. A couple of hardcore folks replace their running rigging with messengers to save UV damage (really hardcore folks)
6. Remove through hull sensors (log/depth)
7. Put a couple of desiccant evaporator containers (like “Damp Rid”) down below to stifle the mildew.
8. Do NOT completely seal up the boat–need a little flowWith all that said, I can't think of anything really peculiar to wintering a Dickerson.
Cheers—Barry
“Practical Sailor” magazine June 2011 did an article on rope care. Consensus was to periodically put them in a mesh bag and wash them with Woolite in a commercial washing machine.
Some sources say add a “little” fabric softener.
These recommendations may be a bit timid for your “green New England slime”.
